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Hi Everyone.

I have created an LDraw/MLCad file of my GBC module.

>> Download Here <<

While creating this CAD file, I noticed a few things that I would like to change in the model, however I have kept the CAD file matching the model at this stage.

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While I have added steps in the CAD file, the file is mainly organised with submodels that make it easier to organise rather than build.
That is, submodels are added whenever there is an odd angle change, and the drivetrain is separate from the frame and electricals.

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The toughest parts to make in MLCad were the chain/s and the string/s.
The chain links don't quite line up, so on the bottom the links are slightly out of alignment.
I think that I did a pretty good job with the string, although I did need to add lots of submodels in the CAD file.

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In the following image you can see how the GBC breaks down into 4 distinct sections:

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Here are a few more images of each section and their drivetrains:

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If someone would like to download and review the LDraw/MLCad file and let me know if any changes are needed, that would be appreciated (I'm sure there are a few mistakes that I missed :wacko:).

>> Download Here <<

This CAD file provides enough information for me if I ever wanted to rebuild the "To and Fro" GBC module, but if someone wants to turn it into a full set of instructions, please do so, and add a link in this topic.

Any constructive feedback/comments/questions are welcome.

favicon.brickshelf.com.png My Brickshelf Gallery with larger images (once moderated)

Edited by Splat

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11 hours ago, Splat said:

Hi Everyone.

I have created an LDraw/MLCad file of my GBC module.

Wow, some great work there.  The synthesized parts are certainly good enough, and I like the separate drivetrain image.

Quote

This CAD file provides enough information for me if I ever wanted to rebuild the "To and Fro" GBC module, but if someone wants to turn it into a full set of instructions, please do so, and add a link in this topic.

I can probably make that happen, but I have a couple of other projects to finish first.

What is the purpose of the rubber bands strapping the strings to the ladder?

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awesome work.. I'd love to build this for BrickVention.. (pretty sure I have parts)... it's just that other valuable resource: time, that is lacking :(

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Awesome GBC module! I like the complete package : functionality, appearance, the alarm!, use of chains and strings etc.

Can't wait to build this myself! :laugh:

Also great work done on the CAD file, showing all submodels. This gives a good view of how things work in this module and how everything's connected. Reminds me of Blakbird's work done for Akiyuki's Ball Factory.

Thanks for sharing!

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On 11/30/2016 at 9:55 AM, Blakbird said:

Wow, some great work there.  The synthesized parts are certainly good enough, and I like the separate drivetrain image.

Thanks.  I thought that you would like the drivetrain images  :grin:

On 11/30/2016 at 9:55 AM, Blakbird said:

What is the purpose of the rubber bands strapping the strings to the ladder?

The distance that the string moves is dictated by the cranks.  I used 'Technic, Liftarm 2 x 4 L-Shape Thick' because a Liftarm 4 was too short, and a Liftarm 5 was too long. However, the Liftarm 2 x 4 L-Shape is just a fraction too long too, so when the ladder reaches the top of it's movement the rubber bands stretch ever-so-slightly.  You can see this in the video at 1:56 (https://youtu.be/XQCGHxT8XaE?t=1m56s), but is only a very slight movement.  Before I had finalised the design, the rubber bands were needed more, but I could probably get away without using them now.

 

On 11/30/2016 at 4:19 PM, RohanBeckett said:

awesome work.. I'd love to build this for BrickVention.. (pretty sure I have parts)... it's just that other valuable resource: time, that is lacking :(

If I make it to BrickVention I could bring the parts needed and build it there if I have time (I have already bought my tickets to the convention, but still need to finalise things in the US before moving back to Australia).

 

On 12/4/2016 at 3:33 PM, Lego_GBC_NL said:

Awesome GBC module! I like the complete package : functionality, appearance, the alarm!, use of chains and strings etc.

Can't wait to build this myself! :laugh:

Also great work done on the CAD file, showing all submodels. This gives a good view of how things work in this module and how everything's connected. Reminds me of Blakbird's work done for Akiyuki's Ball Factory.

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks Lego_GBC_NL :sweet:
If you do end up building it, please post a pic or video for us to see.

Edited by Splat

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On 12/7/2016 at 5:58 PM, LucyCol said:

Not sure if you are aware, but this has made the pages of 'Interesting Engineering'

Hi LucyCol, thanks for letting me know  :sweet:

It's always nice to have my Lego models/photos/videos featured on other websites.

Edited by Splat

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Hi Splat / slfroden,

I finally found some time to build your awesome "To and Fro" Lego GBC module. It was still on my to-do-list, but I had a few other MOCs to finish first, so that’s why it took a while. I really liked the complete set when I first saw the video on YouTube some months ago together with all pictures and the LDraw/MLCAD file here on eurobricks.com, but after having built it myself, it’s even more fantastic! :laugh:

LDraw/MLCAD file:

I used your LDraw/MLCAD file for guiding me through the build. The instructions are 100% accurate, but I have to agree with something you mentioned in an earlier post : partially it’s more about submodels rather than step by step building instructions that one can follow in sequence. Like you said, the drivetrain, frame and electricals are shown separately, but when building, of course everything needs to be integrated. Nevertheless the quality of the file was great, so I could easily understand how everything should fit together.

Balls:

As I’m using the original Lego basket/soccer balls, I was a bit worried it wouldn’t work as you use other balls (other weight, size…). Luckily this worked out just fine.

Timing:

You made this part quite easy :sweet: When I watched your video and read all your comments on eurobricks.com I didn’t even realize the aid you made using the differential and worm gear in order to set up the timing between the different parts. Very handy, ‘cause there’s no need to take apart any gears or whatever to get the timing right. Also great to see how you used the wheels/tires as a counterweight in the waterfall section, also very easy to make adjustments here by moving the wheels/tires along the axles and/or adding those 3x3 black disks.

Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System:

Great, great, great! Works exactly as described. When I was testing the module and not all was running in a smooth manner yet, I actually had a bal getting jammed and the motor shutoff and alarm system did its job properly :thumbup: Unfortunately not captured on film…

Cranks – pulleys – strings – rubber bands:

I consider this the pearl of your module. Works really well and looks superb as well :sweet: Although I had some rubber bands laying around, I first tried to build it without them and it turned out to work quite beautifully using the strings only. In the beginning I was struggling with the strings, but then I found out it was because the strings I was using were simply too thick. I was using the strings from Technic set 42009, part # x77cc250 (medium thickness). When looking more closely to your video, I noticed I had to use thinner strings, so eventually it worked with part # x77ac50 (thin). Issue with the thicker strings was that the ladder was not coming down far enough to pick up any balls.

By the way, to avoid having to tie knots all the time when adjusting the length of the strings (my hands are too big for those tiny things *huh*), I used 2 extra round plates 1x1 (part # 4073). After pulling the strings through part # 15100 at the top of the ladder, I attached part # 4073 to it to keep the strings from moving. I hope it’s clear otherwise I can provide a picture later on.

Besides a few color changes, I made a few minor changes to get things working as smoothly as possible. Two questions below, please note this is not criticism, but simply curiosity :wink:

-        Is there any specific reason why you used the 2 little screwdrivers (part # 4006) to stop the balls before entering the ladder section ? My issue was that these screwdrivers weren’t really firmly attached to the DBG Technic cams (part # 6575) and the balls would move the screwdrivers just a little bit each time they were touching. At some point balls would slip away underneath the screwdrivers, so I decided to use plain 3L axles instead (better connection to the cams).

-        In the hopper section you used this 1x9 black Technic liftarm that was placed vertically in order to support 4 axles. Why did you use a 9L liftarm instead of a 5L ? Isn’t this creating unnecassary instability ? Or did you still connect the 9L liftarm somewhere at the bottom which is not shown in the LDraw/MLCAD file ? Now it looks like the 4 lower pin holes are unused.

Well, enough said, I made a short video and took some pictures. Apologies for the terrible video quality (too dark and unclear... I know). I still need to purchase a decent camera and fix the lighting in the room where I shoot my videos. If you wish that I remove the video from YouTube, just let me know. Just uploaded it so I could share it here on the forum :sweet: I gave credits to your original video and the forum thread here on eurobricks.com.

Thanks again for your creation and for sharing with us. Hope to see more of your modules in the future! :sweet:

 

Edited by Lego_GBC_NL

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@Lego_GBC_NL - I'm glad that you liked my GBC module, and even more glad that you took the time to recreate it yourself. :sweet:

LDraw/MLCAD file: I find that LDraw files can either be optimized for building steps, or for showing functions, but it is difficult to do both at once.  In this case I created the LDraw file to show the functions, but I'm happy that you could follow them and build the complete GBC module yourself.

Balls: I am actually using official Lego Soccer Balls in mine, which is why yours work just fine too.  I'm using the ones that came with the Friends sets recently, so they are orange with the soccer ball pattern and the small hole in them.

Timing: I love differentials. :wub:  Everywhere where I thought that there might need to be some adjustment for timing, I made things easily adjustable so that there isn't a need to do anything tricky like rotating a gear by one tooth, etc.  The differential can take a little while to get in the correct position, but once it is there the worm gear holds it in place nicely so that the timing remains as it should.

Automatic Motor Shutoff and Alarm System: Everyone seems to really like this feature.  :grin:

Cranks – pulleys – strings – rubber bands:

As you can imagine, the creation of a GBC module goes through a lot of iterations to get things working 'just right'.  Some things that were implemented in previous versions are no longer needed in later versions as other small changes have been made since then.  The rubber bands are an example of this.  Before I had all the pulley system finalized, the rubber bands were needed, but in the final version they may no longer be needed at all.  I just kept them there because I had already tied knots in the string, and in my version they do stretch just a tiny little bit.

I must admit that the string and the rubber bands (and the clear plastic cup that I used in the video) are the only non-official Lego pieces that I used.  I have a spool of string that I bought for only a few dollars that is very close to the Lego thin string, but I didn't realize that my GBC module would have trouble with the medium thickness Lego string.  I'm glad that you realized what was happening and got that working.

Nice trick with the round plates 1x1 (part #4073) to hold the string in place.  I use that same trick with official Lego sets that use string because it makes disassembly easier.  For example, if there is a hook, I thread the string though the hole, but then use the 1x1 round plate attached to the hook to pinch the string and hold it in place.

Spanner Wrench / Screwdriver (part #4006): During development I tried many different pieces here.  I found the Spanner Wrench / Screwdriver to work best for me in an earlier iteration, and just left it like that from that point forward.  If you found that the 3L Axle works better and holds in place better, that is great, and I'll have to try that on mine too.  Really, for this piece it was just a matter of 'whatever works'.  The only reason that this whole section is included is because I found that sometimes the balls would shoot out of the hopper too quickly, so I had to add this extra 'timing' mechanism to ensure the balls make it onto the 'ladder' at the correct time.  The horizontal yellow bars near the hopper are also there for the same reason - to guide the balls if they shoot out too quickly.

1x9 Black Technic Liftarm: I must admit that this was me being a bit lazy. That 1x9 Liftarm 'should' be connected at the bottom for better stability, and that was the original plan, but I was trying to get this GBC module finished in time to show at a public expo, and it seemed to work ok without it being connected at the bottom, so I just left it as it was. This piece is also buried deep in the model, so it is difficult to modify quickly. The LDraw file is faithful to the physical model that I made. You could either: connect it in some way at the bottom; replace it with a 1x5 Liftarm as you suggested; or even a 1x11 Liftarm and modify the axle at the bottom; or leave it as it is (which is what I did).

Once again, thank you for taking the time to rebuild my GBC module, taking the time to appreciate all of the little details that went into making it, and taking the time to provide your review/feedback/video.  It always feels good to see others recreating my models.  :grin:

PS. Since you gave me credit for the model and provided links, I'm happy for you to keep your video on YouTube.

Edited by Splat

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Thanks for commenting on my comments and answering my questions :sweet:

OK, didn’t realize you used official Lego balls as well. So far I have only been using the soccer/basket balls that a lot of people use, so I didn’t recognize the type you use as being Lego parts.

I must admit the spanner wrenches / screwdrivers look more spectacular, but of course it’s more important that the module runs smoothly without jams or balls jumping around the room :grin:

Concerning the 1x9 black liftarm: I totally agree it works fine if built as shown in the digital file. In the end, to prevent the lower part of the liftarm from moving too much, I decided to connect the liftarm (8th pin hole) to the available hole in part # 48989, using a 4 axle with stop and two bushes to hold it all in place. This could be easily added without taking apart any other parts.

Oh, and next time I’ll set up a new GBC layout, your “To and Fro” will certainly be proudly part of it! It runs reliably, so it’s a great addition to my collection of GBC modules.

Thanks again!

 

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Your photos are so good that making renders doesn't really add anything, but I did it anyway.

800x600.jpg

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@Blakbird - Thanks for sharing your render, and the compliment about my photos.  :sweet:

It looks like you might be using an early version of my LDraw/MLCad file.
In the early version I had a few of the colours wrong - some elements that were meant to be LBG were actually set to be 'Main Color (16)', and therefore inherited the black colour from the parent/s.  You can see this with the bushes and 1/2 bushes near the top of the hopper.
The updated LDraw/MLCad file can be downloaded at the same link (http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/slfroden/GBC-To-and-Fro/to-and-fro-gbc-module.mpd).
I don't think I changed any parts though, just the colours.

In MLCad, I had previously set my 'Main Color (16)' to show up similar to LBG, but I have now set it to show up as pink so that I don't make these colour mistakes in the future.

It also looks like the flexible parts have suffered from the same issue that we had discussed on another project that I am working on.  That is, the 9V cables look like they are made up of lots of tiny little segments (which they are), but they have gaps between them - they should look continuous.  As per your own suggestion, taking the seam width down to 0 seems to fix this when rendering in POV-Ray.  Or, increase the number of steps in the flexible parts in MLCad, but that also increases the file size and uses more computer resources when working with the file in MLCad/LDView/POV-Ray.

I notice that you have changed some of the balls to black and white soccer balls, and it looks like you took the time to rotate each one just a little bit to make them look more natural too!  :tongue:

Thanks again for sharing.

PS.  I noticed that you crop your renders fairly tightly around the subject (not just this render, but other renders too).  This is purely personal preference, but I like to give the subject a little bit more 'breathing room'.  By allowing that extra 'breathing room', you can always crop down later if you need to.

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21 hours ago, Splat said:

It looks like you might be using an early version of my LDraw/MLCad file.

That wouldn't surprise me.  I've had this file sitting around for a while.

21 hours ago, Splat said:

I notice that you have changed some of the balls to black and white soccer balls, and it looks like you took the time to rotate each one just a little bit to make them look more natural too! 

Thanks for noticing!  I like to make a render look real, and perfect alignment is always a flag for fake.

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On 10/30/2020 at 9:54 AM, 9v system said:

i have created a set of PDF instructions from the Ldraw file posted above

Thanks for your work on this Aron.

Unfortunately the PDF instructions have a few issues.  There are quite a few steps where pieces are just 'floating', and others where the pieces can't be put together in that order.  There are also a lot of steps where the parts are individual segments of the wires and string rather than the wire/string as one piece, and where the part call-outs are on top of the model image/s.

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On 11/2/2020 at 3:13 PM, Splat said:

Thanks for your work on this Aron.

Unfortunately the PDF instructions have a few issues.  There are quite a few steps where pieces are just 'floating', and others where the pieces can't be put together in that order.  There are also a lot of steps where the parts are individual segments of the wires and string rather than the wire/string as one piece, and where the part call-outs are on top of the model image/s.

i have gone through the whole module doing changes to steps removing the wires and string, putting things in the right order, it looks alot better and its buildable now

heres the updated instructions https://bricksafe.com/files/gbcbuilder/akiyuki/gbc-to-and-fro/to-and-fro-gbc-module.pdf

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I'd like to build this but when I upload the xml to bricklink it doesn't recognize the file.  I also tried pasting the text content and when it validates it just spins and spins.  Anyone have a working bsx file?

 

Thanks!

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