42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS - MODs and Improvements

[Appie]

9 hours ago, Kumbbl said:

they are incompatible!

Ok, take it easy, that's easily fixed though. Not that I care to fix it, but if only that axle is a problem, I see an easy fix with a couple of 6L thin liftarms in place of the (left side) 5L thin liftarms, a 3L pin with pinhole in the centre and a couple of pin changes and done.

 

9 hours ago, Kumbbl said:

And therefore especially THIS chassis has to be as rigid as possible also without body... and - at least IMHO - it is good supercar buildingstyle to design a Lego chassis with best possible rigidity for itself:

I agree that it's a good building style, but I like the idea of the unibody being functional on a model. Just as I did for Sheepo's Mustang, however Sheepo's Mustang gearbox doesn't suffer from the loss of rigidity in the chassis like the Porsche chassis, because the whole gearbox is modular on the Mustang.

Edited May 29, 2017 by Appie

[Kumbbl]

4 minutes ago, Appie said:

Ok, take it easy, that's easily fixed though. Not that I care to fix it, but if only that axle is a problem, I see an easy fix with a couple of 6L thin liftarms in place of the (left side) 5L thin liftarms, a 3L pin with pinhole in the centre and a couple of pin changes and done.

i take it very easy - no worries - and i also like your reverse-gear-MOD a lot (in generall it is a very clean solution) but - as written above - i prefer that one of DayWalker for certain arguments...  and i can not imagine from your description how a solution for the mode-gearbox based on 6L thin liftarms can be as rigid as the current one with 5L because the 5L liftarms have axle-holes at both ends which brings a lot of rigidity into the game whereas the 6L just have pin-holes which are IMHO less suitable here... but maybe i have just not understood what you have in mind... probably i haven't understood it... ;-)

[Appie]

The 3L pin with pinhole in the centre would be mounted by that centre pinhole on the 5x7 frame, the right side would be on the 6L thin liftarms and the left side of that 3L pin with centre hole would be inserted into the black liftarm of the chassis (besides that 5x11 panel in black). Those 6L thin liftarms aren't going anywhere on that side. As for the structure being stronger because of the axle holes, the cross blocks are much more likely to break under stress than any other part in Technic. The axles holes of the thin liftarms are nice to keep the 2L liftarms in place for the top of the console though, hence why I kept them on the right side for this solution.

I am not going to bother taking a picture for this, this is just one kind of fix of many for this very small problem.

Also, no problem you like the one from DayWalker more, to each their own. I have a different idea for a gear indicator which some probably won't like either, I don't mind, it's just an idea I like more than the 2 current options available

[Kumbbl]

On 21.5.2017 at 10:26 PM, Appie said:

Well recently I started building this set. I got to page 110 before I couldn't take the sheer amount of obvious Technic flaws in this model anymore. Luckily there was the work of @Didumos69 and others that fixed pretty much all of these glaring issues within weeks after release. So I started to apply some mods. Then I remembered this model still didn't have a proper 1 speed reverse solution. I never really liked Max Supercars' mod, because it only stopped the problem, it didn't remove it, plus it wouldn't work with the HoG shift mod.

Then I remembered @Jeroen Ottens DB11 mechanism of 1 reverse gear which was stupid easy to apply to the Porsche as well and should work with most/all (?) previous mods for this set.

In order to preserve ground clearance I had to use 3x 8T gears here (these are only hooked up to the front 16T gear obviously), which meant I had to invert the output of the driveshaft from the gearbox (the 3x 12T bevel gears between the gearbox and the D-N-R switch visible in the next pic) so the engine still turns the same direction while going reverse. I didn't apply Didomus' "eliminate friction in the gearbox" mod, but this whole thing runs very smooth on my chassis.

The reverse axle then meets the centre of the gearbox at the bottom. This has the same gear ratio as first gear.

@AppieYesterday i had in mind, that it would be a good idea to combine both reverse-gear MODs - yours and daywalkers: yours for the additonal gear-train for reverse (as in real cars) and daywalkers for the prevention from engaging reverse when others gears than 1st are engaged (as in real cars too)...but after a little bit of thinking about your solution, Appie, i now think, that this is a bad idea, at least, if one is not a real hell-driver as you, Appie ... Well, lets have a closer look: you wrote that with your solution "reverse gear has the same ratio than 1st gear"... well, IMHO this is wrong - but let us first check some facts - see following pic:

This is the retail gearbox-layout which has the following gear-ratios and -sequence as shown in the pic above (at least if you have fixed the wrong gear-sequences by Borratkos fix). The green arrow means that this red clutch gear is engaged for the named gear. x:y means: if pistons spinn x-times, then the 20th black bevel gear nearby the differential spinns y-times. Do we agree about this? Do you use this or a equivalent gear-layout (BTW: the layout of Didumos69 and jp70 has the same ratios and gear-sequence)? And do we also agree that your reverse-gear-axle at the bottom connects to the DBG 24th gear of the gearbox (see second pic of the quoted post)?

If three times "yes" and if i have nothing misunderstood (which is always possible in my case ;-) than your reverse gear has not the same ratio as first gear (as needed) but the same ratio as the 4. gear, ie. 1:3, which is the highest gear which drives the car drive fast... To cut a long story short: Your reverse gear is a quite fast and special reverse gear, one could call it an "overdrive" ;-) and you must have really excellent driving skills for parking backwards

[Didumos69]

On 28-5-2017 at 3:16 PM, Didumos69 said:

The only thing I miss is my improved paddle shifter unit with shorter shifts and a more natural steering wheel position. For ease of building the white rubber bands could stay on top and replace the red rubber bands I used inside the unit. I could make a photo sequence if anyone would want to build that unit.

On 28-5-2017 at 4:21 PM, Kumbbl said:

Didumos69, i would be very interested in this photo-sequence - thanks a lot in advance!

On 29-5-2017 at 8:47 AM, Didumos69 said:

Okay, I plan to do that next Wednesday.

Okay, here we go. The mechanism is essentially the same as in the stock build. The main difference is that the casing is stronger and the paddles return more easily: there is no need for change-over catches and rubber connectors to obtain a smooth return of the side knob gears. But there is another advantage; the paddles need not return as far as in the original unit. In fact, the paddles can be brought one stud closer to the steering wheel. That's a nice thing! And because of the more smooth return, the paddles could do with less silicon power, which made it possible to move the silicon bands (red ones in this case) inside the unit, without introducing additional bending.

To summarize the advantages:

• Lighter operation
• Paddles 1 stud closer to the steering wheel
• Less travel required to shift (about 1.5 stud)
• Silicon bands inside the unit
• More realistically angled steering wheel
• Geared down steering with steering wheel
• More reliable shifting

Here is the photo sequence and here is the LXF-file. EDIT: I just submitted this mod to Rebrickable.

Important notes on installation:

• EDIT: This unit only works when combined with the 90 degree limiter incorporated in the H-frame just in front of the gearbox!!!
• You have to check the position of the 12t thin bevel gear in the steering line. It could be that you need to move it to the other side of the 20t gear in your build.
• To fit this in, I extended Hispabricks removable body mod in the dashboard area. In the image below you see the stock parts to the left and my mod to the right.
• When you install or remove the body, you need to pull the left paddle, otherwise the door hinges won't pass the LBG half bushes underneath the steering wheel.

This is what the unit looks like from close-by:

Edited May 30, 2017 by Didumos69

[Kumbbl]

On 18.10.2016 at 9:02 PM, Didumos69 said:

I have this one still laying around (based on ideas from MaxSupercars and Appie), but it's certainly not compact and I never tested it and I don't know whether the 15L liftarm has enough movement underneath the 3x11 panel, but it should come close. It does fit with all minimal fixes from the unofficial errata though. The LXF-file also contains the errata and HoG steering.

I deliberately left out the reverse gear shifting block from the errata and from my ultimately playable version because it takes up a lot of space and still allows to shift from 4th gear to neutral and back. I think the better way to fix the reverse gear shifting would be to actually bypass the gearbox in reverse. But that would be an advanced MOD and as it adds to realism it should IMO also make sure the gearbox is not engaged when in neutral. That would require the order to be engine->D+N+R->gearbox. Right now it is engine->gearbox->D+N+R.

Hmm, in the meanwhile i would say, it is not the best to bypass the complete gearbox for reverse because this alone would not prevent from shifting from 4th gear to neutral or reverse - Appie has implemented such a bypass and with such a solution you can engage neutral or reverse mode whenever you want regardless of the gear currently active. Therefore IMHO the only way to make the gearbox behavior realistic is a solution like Daywalkers. IMHO the latest one (see some posts above) fullfils all requirements:

a) reverse gear has a high reduction-ratio (in this case the same as first gear)

b) engaging reverse (or neutral) mode is not possible if another gear than 1st is engaged, ie. it does NOT allow to shift from 4th (and also not from 3rd and 2nd) gear to neutral and back

c) in reverse mode you can not switch gears - so in reverse-mode you HAVE JUST ONE possible gear-ratio (see a)

Have i something overseen or do you agree, @Didumos69? if yes, then IMHO this solution really deserves being integrated in a ultimate Porsche ;-)

1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

Okay, here we go. The mechanism is essentially the same as in the stock build. ..

Here is the photo sequence and here is the LXF-file. EDIT: I just submitted this mod to Rebrickable.

Important notes on installation:

• EDIT: This unit only works when combined with the 90 degree limiter incorporated in the H-frame just in front of the gearbox!!!
• You have to check the position of the 12t thin bevel gear in the steering line. It could be that you need to move it to the other side of the 20t gear in your build.
• To fit this in, I extended Hispabricks removable body mod in the dashboard area. In the image below you see the stock parts to the left and my mod to the right.
• When you install or remove the body, you need to pull the left paddle, otherwise the door hinges won't pass the LBG half bushes underneath the steering wheel.

@Didumos69: Thanks you very much - just had a look at the photo sequence - very easy to follow, thnak you. also for the installation-notes - i definitely will gives this unit a try - even though i'm quite satisfied with the stock paddle-shifter because in combination with your ingenious 90 degree indexer (and the other optimisations of your errata/jb70's package) the shifting works 100% reliable and smooth for me...

[Appie]

6 hours ago, Kumbbl said:

well, IMHO this is wrong

No need for IMHO, it's just wrong

I was afraid I might have messed this up. I figured the instructions would show the model being build in 1st gear, so I build this mod on that assumption, I should have bothered to check this properly, sorry. To fix this to the same ratio as first while preserving ground clearance might be a little tricky, but I'll give it a whirl. Same ratio as second is doable at least. As for being a "hell-driver", I'd consider it quite a feat to move a car from standstill in 4th gear, not to mention "4th gear" in reverse. I managed 3rd once (and never tried again), but that was due to lack of me not paying attention and I guess some nice clutch handling (it didn't make a sound), but from 4th? Would just shut down the engine.

As for combining the 2 mods, I don't see that happening. If I read correctly, DayWalker has inverted the D and R on the console, mine is still true to the sticker. I am aware the sticker is wrong compared to real life, but overhauling the gearbox to make the rear red 16T gear in the console reverse felt like more of a hassle and I didn't want to mess with the sticker.
 

 

[Kumbbl]

18 minutes ago, Appie said:

No need for IMHO, it's just wrong

I was afraid I might have messed this up. I figured the instructions would show the model being build in 1st gear, so I build this mod on that assumption, I should have bothered to check this properly, sorry. To fix this to the same ratio as first while preserving ground clearance might be a little tricky, but I'll give it a whirl. Same ratio as second is doable at least. As for being a "hell-driver", I'd consider it quite a feat to move a car from standstill in 4th gear, not to mention "4th gear" in reverse. I managed 3rd once (and never tried again), but that was due to lack of me not paying attention and I guess some nice clutch handling (it didn't make a sound), but from 4th? Would just shut down the engine.

as for the wrong console stickers: yes, very annoying - probably TLG did this because for kids it's more intuitive when driving forward means pushing the lever forward too and reverse means pulling the lever backwards... but for an ultimate model for a target group 16+ it's a shame... i asked already Walter (the guy who sells some really cool door and rear spoiler stickers, see

) if it would be possible to produce and sell custom made console stickers with correct R-N-D sequence but he said this would be too expensive... but he adviced me, that some cutting and reordering of the official console sticker could do the job: ordering a new sticker set, cutting the left console sticker in pieces so we get parts where we can exchange D and R in its positions - would be quite fiddling but i asume the cuts would be hardly noticable... so i will give it a try... but also if sticker cutting does not work i will stay with Daywalkers reverse gear MOD simply because it is right - sequential gearboxes have D backwards and R forward, period! ;-) Look, we can not discuss that the front calipers must not be mounted on the front side of the front-axle just because the real car has it at the rear side and simultansously accepting that engaging reverse needs pulling the mode-stick backwards...

Edited May 30, 2017 by Kumbbl

[Appie]

1 hour ago, Kumbbl said:

Look, we can not discuss that the front calipers must not be mounted on the front side of the front-axle just because the real car has it at the rear side and simultansously accepting that engaging reverse needs pulling the mode-stick backwards...

What people choose to keep "real" and not is up to them and being contradicting or not in that aspect as well. People mod what they want with this model or keep what they want.

As for the 16+ tag and Lego seriously ignoring this tag while using the instructions or functions of the model was already clear, so we can add stickers to that as well

Edited May 30, 2017 by Appie

[Didumos69]

4 hours ago, Kumbbl said:

Hmm, in the meanwhile i would say, it is not the best to bypass the complete gearbox for reverse because this alone would not prevent from shifting from 4th gear to neutral or reverse - Appie has implemented such a bypass and with such a solution you can engage neutral or reverse mode whenever you want regardless of the gear currently active. Therefore IMHO the only way to make the gearbox behavior realistic is a solution like Daywalkers. IMHO the latest one (see some posts above) fullfils all requirements:

a) reverse gear has a high reduction-ratio (in this case the same as first gear)

b) engaging reverse (or neutral) mode is not possible if another gear than 1st is engaged, ie. it does NOT allow to shift from 4th (and also not from 3rd and 2nd) gear to neutral and back

c) in reverse mode you can not switch gears - so in reverse-mode you HAVE JUST ONE possible gear-ratio (see a)

Have i something overseen or do you agree, @Didumos69? if yes, then IMHO this solution really deserves being integrated in a ultimate Porsche ;-)

From the images alone, I think you are correct that @DayWalker's solution meets all requirements you listed, so I would also conclude it gives the most realistic behavior. The only thing that would bother me is that you can still switch form 4th gear to neutral and from neutral to 4th gear. Not that I really care about infinite shifting and 4 reverse gears etc., but when switching to reverse should only be possible in the lowest gear, then why would switching from neutral to 4th gear be acceptable? But you are right that bypassing the gearbox - like @Appie did - by itself does not solve that issue either.

4 hours ago, Kumbbl said:

...i definitely will gives this unit a try - even though i'm quite satisfied with the stock paddle-shifter because in combination with your ingenious 90 degree indexer (and the other optimisations of your errata/jb70's package) the shifting works 100% reliable and smooth for me...

I know, but after having experienced my modded unit, the stock unit will feel like you need to pull a manual railroad switch to change gears . I would like to hear your thoughts when you've built it.

Edited May 30, 2017 by Didumos69

[DayWalker]

2 hours ago, Appie said:

[...]If I read correctly, DayWalker has inverted the D and R on the console, mine is still true to the sticker. I am aware the sticker is wrong compared to real life, but overhauling the gearbox to make the rear red 16T gear in the console reverse felt like more of a hassle and I didn't want to mess with the sticker.
 

 

It is right ! D and R corresponds to the real position and not the sticker....

[Kumbbl]

2 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

From the images alone, I think you are correct that @DayWalker's solution meets all requirements you listed, so I would also conclude it gives the most realistic behavior. The only thing that would bother me is that you can still switch form 4th gear to neutral and from neutral to 4th gear. Not that I really care about infinite shifting and 4 reverse gears etc., but when switching to reverse should only be possible in the lowest gear, then why would switching from neutral to 4th gear be acceptable? @Appie

 

Didumos69, why do you still think, that it is possible to switch to neutral when in 4th gear? This is not possible, see above bullet b: " b) engaging reverse (or neutral) mode is not possible if another gear than 1st is engaged, ie. it does NOT allow to shift from 4th (and also not from 3rd and 2nd) gear to neutral and back"...

If you have a deep look at the solution of DayWalker which i built then you will see, that moving from D to N moves the 3L driving ring 1/2 stud - but this movement (even just a half stud) is not possible when in another gear then 1st - take a look at the following pics:

In the following pic you see a "zoom" into the preventing-module:

The 3L driving ring drives a slider which slides an axle through the pinhole P (see small pic above). In D (real D not sticker D) the mode stick is in back position which means the driving ring is in most forward postition which means the slider axle in pinhole P ends exactly in P, ie. the axle does not protrude into the H-frame. When moving to mode neutral the drivingring moves by 1/2 stud which in turn moves also the axle through pinhole P 1/2 stud (moving in reverse mode moves the driving another 1/2 stud so overall 1 stud --> in mode neutral the slider axle protrudes 1/2 stud into the H-frame, in reverse mode it protrudes 1 stud into the H-frame.

No take a look at the yellow-DBG "knob" (on the right side of the small pic above). This knob "opens" pinhole P only in 1st gear, i all other three gears (2nd, 3rd and 4th) pinhole p is closed so thr slider axle can not protrude into the H-frame, not even 1/2 stud.... therefore you can not switch to neutral in 4th gear! But only if you are in 1st gear. Therefore this solution is IMHO complete, means it fullfils ALL requirements.

Was my description unstandable?

[Didumos69]

2 hours ago, Kumbbl said:

Didumos69, why do you still think, that it is possible to switch to neutral when in 4th gear? This is not possible, see above bullet b: " b) engaging reverse (or neutral) mode is not possible if another gear than 1st is engaged, ie. it does NOT allow to shift from 4th (and also not from 3rd and 2nd) gear to neutral and back"...

If you have a deep look at the solution of DayWalker which i built then you will see, that moving from D to N moves the 3L driving ring 1/2 stud - but this movement (even just a half stud) is not possible when in another gear then 1st - take a look at the following pics:

The 3L driving ring drives a slider which slides an axle through the pinhole P (see small pic above). In D (real D not sticker D) the mode stick is in back position which means the driving ring is in most forward postition which means the slider axle in pinhole P ends exactly in P, ie. the axle does not protrude into the H-frame. When moving to mode neutral the drivingring moves by 1/2 stud which in turn moves also the axle through pinhole P 1/2 stud (moving in reverse mode moves the driving another 1/2 stud so overall 1 stud --> in mode neutral the slider axle protrudes 1/2 stud into the H-frame, in reverse mode it protrudes 1 stud into the H-frame.

No take a look at the yellow-DBG "knob" (on the right side of the small pic above). This knob "opens" pinhole P only in 1st gear, i all other three gears (2nd, 3rd and 4th) pinhole p is closed so thr slider axle can not protrude into the H-frame, not even 1/2 stud.... therefore you can not switch to neutral in 4th gear! But only if you are in 1st gear. Therefore this solution is IMHO complete, means it fullfils ALL requirements.

Was my description unstandable?

Aha, yes, now I understand. I misread bullet b) and was not aware of the fact that the axle sticks beyond the H-frame pinhole also in neutral. This makes this mod perfect! Nice work @DayWalker! 

[DayWalker]

44 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

Aha, yes, now I understand. I misread bullet b) and was not aware of the fact that the axle sticks beyond the H-frame pinhole also in neutral. This makes this mod perfect! Nice work @DayWalker! 

Thanks ^ ^

But to be very honnest, you can move from gears 2,3 or 4 in neutral direction, but not enough to engage the neutral gear, since the 2x1 plate with arm up is thiner than the slit of the gear shifter ring. So if you try to go to neutral, you can move a little bit the gear shifter, but it is impossible to engage the neutral position, except in 1st gear.

Edited May 30, 2017 by DayWalker

[Kumbbl]

23 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Okay, here we go. ...

To summarize the advantages:

• More realistically angled steering wheel

Here is the photo sequence and here is the LXF-file. EDIT: I just submitted this mod to Rebrickable.

@Didumos69: After collecting the needed parts i saw you use a part in a quite rare color (in pics 159 - 165): Black Pin Connector Perpendicular 2 x 2 Bent 

Well cause of the visibilty here black can not be avoided but you can replace this part with a much more common one: Black Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular (6536) - to use this part the two 3L blue pins in pic 163 (to which the Black Pin Connector Perpendicular 2 x 2 Bent will be connected) must be replaced by two Dark Bluish Gray Technic, Axle Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and 1L Axle (11214)... Then you can use standard Black Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular for mounting the angled steering wheel to the top of the shifter casing ... was my description understandable?

well, the Black Pin Connector Perpendicular 2 x 2 Bent is not really hard to get but they occur in just a few sets (i own quite all technic sets from the beginning until today and only 8 sets contain together 17 items of this part) and 6536 and 11214 are much more common and also much cheaper... and IMHO it's always better to use parts which are as common as possible if they fullfil the same requirements as more rare parts  in a certain situation..

And of course: the 4 Technic Beams 1x7 thin in red (very expensive, 2,50€ each and mega rare) could be replaced by black ones, which are much cheaper and quite common...and here the red color adds really not much value ;-)

Edited May 31, 2017 by Kumbbl

[Didumos69]

1 hour ago, Kumbbl said:

and IMHO it's always better to use parts which are as common as possible if they fullfil the same requirements as more rare parts  in a certain situation..

Agreed. I used the red 7l thin liftarms, because those were the only ones I had when I built the unit. I replaced them in the rebrickable inventory with their black (the cheapest) counterparts.

About using the black parts. This has to do with one of my own rules of good design that I restrict myself to: Whenever a structure benefits from being secured firmly in the direction of the connection, it is better to use a pin-pinhole connection than to use an axle-axlehole connection. In this case I found the steering console to be better of with pin-pinhole connections, because axle-axlehole connections might disconnect when you pull the steering console backwards (towards the driver seat). But under normal circumstances, using the parts instead of won't do much harm, I suppose.

I added the following notes on the rebrickable page:

Important notes on instructions:
- The expensive red 7L thin liftarms in the instructions can of course be substituted with the cheaper black versions, or any other color. In the inventory I replaced the red ones with black ones.

- If you don't have black parts, you can replace them with black parts. To do that you also need to replace the two  to which they connect with two .

Edited May 31, 2017 by Didumos69

[Kumbbl]

@Didumos69: perfect - thanks.

[Kumbbl]

On 30.5.2017 at 10:54 AM, Didumos69 said:

Okay, here we go. The mechanism is essentially the same as in the stock build. The main difference is that the casing is stronger and the paddles return more easily: there is no need for change-over catches and rubber connectors to obtain a smooth return of the side knob gears. But there is another advantage; the paddles need not return as far as in the original unit. In fact, the paddles can be brought one stud closer to the steering wheel. That's a nice thing! And because of the more smooth return, the paddles could do with less silicon power, which made it possible to move the silicon bands (red ones in this case) inside the unit, without introducing additional bending.

To summarize the advantages:

• Lighter operation
• Paddles 1 stud closer to the steering wheel
• Less travel required to shift (about 1.5 stud)
• Silicon bands inside the unit
• More realistically angled steering wheel
• Geared down steering with steering wheel
• More reliable shifting

Here is the photo sequence and here is the LXF-file. EDIT: I just submitted this mod to Rebrickable.

Important notes on installation:

• EDIT: This unit only works when combined with the 90 degree limiter incorporated in the H-frame just in front of the gearbox!!!
• You have to check the position of the 12t thin bevel gear in the steering line. It could be that you need to move it to the other side of the 20t gear in your build.
• To fit this in, I extended Hispabricks removable body mod in the dashboard area. In the image below you see the stock parts to the left and my mod to the right.
• When you install or remove the body, you need to pull the left paddle, otherwise the door hinges won't pass the LBG half bushes underneath the steering wheel.

Well, i have build this new paddle-shifter of @Didumos69 and i want to share my impressions and as well some hints how to integrate this paddle-shifter with the “Pimp up my Porsche”-MOD of @jb70:

 

The latter mainly for people not wanting to reinvent the wheel concerning “how to fix the flaws of the stock Porsche” but starting from a well designed MOD-package (with full blown PDF-instructions) which contains the most important fixes (based og the errata of Didumos) of the pitfalls of the retail set: The jb70s Porsche with its very good BI – all my MODs are based on top of this modded Porsche.

First my impressions of the new paddle-shifter designed by @Didumos69: Well, it’s a quite clever mechanism which allows indeed slighty lighter operations. But its main advantage is the better look cause of the angled steering wheel and the almost (because of inside mounted) invisible rubber bands. So this new paddle-shifter shifts an already very good and 100% reliable stock shifter (only when used with the indexer of Didumos errata, which is contained in jb70s package) to an almost perfect gearbox-shifter. Overall I rate it as very well designed and a nice addon which is really worth of building and integrating into the jb70-Porsche but IMHO it’s not a must have because the retails shifter contained I the jb70-Porsche works really well.

Now the needed changes to integrate the new paddle-shifter into the jb70-Porsche:

I’m a great fan of building in modules with robust interfaces. So my goal was to modify the new paddle-shifter so it has the same interface as the stock shifter so it can be integrated with almost zero changes of the jb70-Porsche.

Changes needed in the paddle-shifter itself (see yellow textbox in the pic below):

Detail: The modified (only on the right side in the pic below) top cover of the new shifter casing:

Detail: The modified bottom of the new shifter casing (just an LBG 3x5 Liftarm has to be mounted so it gets the same interface as the stock shifter of jb70s chassis):

Now the new paddle-shifter has the same interface as the standard shifter (see pic below) in the BI of jb70 on page 51:

 

Changes needed in the Porsche-MOD of jb70:

Chassis, Page 53 and 54: As i mentioned in the yellow textbox in the first pic the 11L black liftarm is not appropriately fixed and braced on the shifter. For this we must slightly modify the HoG-module of jb70s chassis as shown in the pics below:

and now this modified HoG-module mounted to the chassis:

This are all changes needed at the chassis of jb70s Porsche

 

Body, Page 262: For the body just a very small change is needed at the connection-point between the body and the left side of the paddle-shifter casing:

Detail:

detail:

No other changes are needed - Especially none of the following instructions of Didumos69 are necessary for jb70s Porsche:

• "You have to check the position of the 12t thin bevel gear in the steering line. It could be that you need to move it to the other side of the 20t gear in your build. --> Not needed, the bevel gears are already correct.
• To fit this in, I extended Hispabricks removable body mod in the dashboard area. In the image below you see the stock parts to the left and my mod to the right. --> none of the extensions in the dashboard area mentioned by Didumos in his posting above are needed - only the changes i described above!
• When you install or remove the body, you need to pull the left paddle, otherwise the door hinges won't pass the LBG half bushes underneath the steering wheel. --> not necessary, the sides of the porsches are flexible enough so be slightly bent outside to pass the left paddle!"

Thats all, now the new paddle-shifter can be used with jb70s Porsche-MOD!

And this is the result - paddle-shifter of Didumos built into the jb70-Porsche (with gear-indicator of DayWalker):

Edited June 3, 2017 by Kumbbl

[Kumbbl]

Next MOD I integrated in my “Pimp up my Porsche” of jb70 was the nifty and very clean designed door locking mechanism of @el Squatter:

Here are step-by-step pics so no need to watch the video in the original post for rebuilding it (but the video is well made and also quite easy to follow, thank you el Squatter!)

Several components are needed:

How to mount them at the right door:

Final:

I modified the original MOD a little bit so the construction is more robust and rigid: instead of the simple axle 4L which connects the orange door handle with the black 3x3 thin liftarm I use a axle 4L with stop mounted from inside à so horizontal black beam spanning the whole door (which is build from some thin liftarms) is not only hold in place by 1 black pin as in the original design (which makes the construction quite flimsy) but at two points: the black pin and the stop of the axle 4L with stop.

Furthermore I have exchanged the orange door lock (orange Bionicle 1 x 3 Tooth with Axle Hole) by a black one because IMHO a black one is quite invisible from outside whereas a orange one is an optical break of the clean clearance between door and rear car wing.

Bonnet holder:

The last MOD I added is my own MOD, but only a very small one: a holder for the bonnet with its rear spoiler. The holder can be very easily locked in open state. I added this MOD because the opened bonnet with rear spoiler is the only way to get a glimpse of moving pistons when the body is mounted. But the bonnet+rear spoiler is too heavy for staying reliable open when the car is pushed around (because it is just hold by the friction of two pins). Therefore I added the following lockable holder. For locking the opened bonnet just pull the center joint a little bit backwards then it will be locked and the bonnet will stay opened. For closing just fully open the bonnet and the holder will automatically fold down when you close the bonnet.

Here come the pics how to build and mount:

The holder (replace the black pin with friction at the central joint with a frictionless pin!) and the locking-module

Mounting locking-module (direct below the black liftarm 9L):

Mounting at the bonnet and final state when bonnet is open and locked in place:

[Paknaloid]

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Edited January 4, 2018 by Paknaloid

[Appie]

A question: do people notice more friction in second gear than the other 3 after fixing the sequence to being correct? The funny thing is that when I put gear 2 and 3 like the instructions (so 1>3>2>4) the friction is gone (just like Lego said why they did it).

In gear 1-3-4 I can push the chassis with no rigidity reinforced mods perfectly smooth over the table, but second gear comes to a grinding halt within 5cm.

Considering the same amount of gears are turning, I don't understand how this happens. Additional bracing of parts doesn't seem to help nor moving the gears of gear 2 and 3 in front of the the rear axle. Removing the red 16T of 4th gear made no difference (figured that different speed might be messing it up like Didumos pointed out) , but perhaps I need to fully adjust the axles like @Didumos69 did with his mod.

[DayWalker]

2 hours ago, Paknaloid said:

the door mod - I recall a lockable door mod on the forum which had elastic bands. Is yours an improved version of this, or something completely different? Either way I'll be implementing this too

It may be my mod with both indoor and outdoor handles

Here is the LXF to fabricate it ;)

[Paknaloid]

7 hours ago, DayWalker said:

It may be my mod with both indoor and outdoor handles

Here is the LXF to fabricate it ;)

Yes that was the one - cheers 

Edited June 6, 2017 by Milan
Removed quoted image from previous post.

[DayWalker]

48 minutes ago, Appie said:

A question: do people notice more friction in second gear than the other 3 after fixing the sequence to being correct? The funny thing is that when I put gear 2 and 3 like the instructions (so 1>3>2>4) the friction is gone (just like Lego said why they did it).

In gear 1-3-4 I can push the chassis with no rigidity reinforced mods perfectly smooth over the table, but second gear comes to a grinding halt within 5cm.

Considering the same amount of gears are turning, I don't understand how this happens. Additional bracing of parts doesn't seem to help nor moving the gears of gear 2 and 3 in front of the the rear axle. Removing the red 16T of 4th gear made no difference (figured that different speed might be messing it up like Didumos pointed out) , but perhaps I need to fully adjust the axles like @Didumos69 did with his mod.

 

I noticed nothing particular with Didumos69's mod...

[Kumbbl]

7 hours ago, Appie said:

A question: do people notice more friction in second gear than the other 3 after fixing the sequence to being correct? The funny thing is that when I put gear 2 and 3 like the instructions (so 1>3>2>4) the friction is gone (just like Lego said why they did it).

In gear 1-3-4 I can push the chassis with no rigidity reinforced mods perfectly smooth over the table, but second gear comes to a grinding halt within 5cm.

Considering the same amount of gears are turning, I don't understand how this happens. Additional bracing of parts doesn't seem to help nor moving the gears of gear 2 and 3 in front of the the rear axle. Removing the red 16T of 4th gear made no difference (figured that different speed might be messing it up like Didumos pointed out) , but perhaps I need to fully adjust the axles like @Didumos69 did with his mod.

I built the stock Porsche two times following standard BI (only applied Blakbirds step-5 fix and Attikas 180 degree change of the change-over-chatches of the the paddle-shifter unit): First time the paddle-shifter works quite unreliable with some gearbox stalls but the geartrain itself works more or less ok, i.e. was able to move the car in all gears without loud grinding but quite high resistance in first gear. Second time vice versa, now gear switching works quite well but now the gearbox shows same behavior as reported by Appie (and some others) only in sequence 1,3,2,4 it works, but not in correct order 1,2,3,4…  BTW: I'am a very experienced builder so too low building skills can not be the reason ;-)

After that I throw away the stock Porsche and switched to the errata of @Didumos69 as contained in jb70s Porsche: Now all is working flawlessly, now I could easily push the car over the whole dinning table and it drives freely in all gears without grinding, with very low resistance…

Conclusion: despite its gorgeous looks the stock Porsche is crap (sorry) because its build is not deterministic: The design is so sensitive against smallest and most subtle changes (ie. Micrometers can make the difference) in connecting axle, gears etc… so even very experienced builders can not be sure to get a well working machine at the end. Paul Boratlko has reported the same for the build-sessions of himself and his wife. This means not, that it is impossible to build an somehow acceptable (not good but just acceptable!) working stock Porsche, but it means: first you need some luck for it and it does not only depend on your building skills and second you have at least to fix one serious error in the official BI: the step-5 fix of Blakbird (without this you will never get a working model). Both facts are not acceptable for a 299€ product (which on top is praised as ultimate from TLG herself) which should have passed the internal quality ensurance of TLG - but i assume this whole department was in a two year sabbatical during development of the 42056-set ;-). And it is also crap because the model fails in two of its main features (ie. more or less in all its features) when built as intended (by TLG) to be build: the gearbox and gear-shifting works unreliable (all the workarounds build in by TLG are a shame: the white clutch gear, the intended wrong gear sequence to reduce friction (first i could not believe it as TLG has confirmed this - really unbelievable), the 8^th gear mounted onto a friction pin for the gear-shifting – all this would be not necessary if the design would be well thought and made) and the complete front-axle is a deficit at all: way too weak for the heavy weight, bad geometry, huge bump-steer, too small steering lock and no ackerman (which is a nogo for a model of this size). So the only purpose of the stock Porsche can be: Display it onto your shelf but do not touch and move it (maybe this was the main goal by its designers, who knows ;-)

Luckiliy there are solutions: The first problem (gearbox and shifting) is completely fixed by the errata of @Didumos69 but the second one (front axle) is only fixed by his ultimate playable Porsche. But luckily again there is a Porsche which contains all these needed fixes and solutions (and some more) in one package which is available with full blown PDF-BI at rebrickable: @jb70 “Pimp up my Porsche”. BTW: with this package none of the above mentioned workarounds of TLG are necessary; they are completely thrown away.

So I would recommend every one who wants to build the Porsche, who wants to build a flawlessly and very well working Porsche: Do not waste time by building the stock Porsche but start with this “pimp up my Porsche” by jb70 – and do all your own MODing onto this base… ;-)

Edited June 6, 2017 by Kumbbl