[WIP] Scania WLS

[jgw]

Hey guys.

For the last couple of days I've been building on a new project: a Scania WLS. Dutch people may recognize this truck as the dutch military heavy transport truck, transporting containers and flatracks.

Here a picture of the real thing:

For now I got only a part of the chassis. I am satisfied with the front suspension, and the rear axle is nice and compact, but it has 4 tires per axle, so a differential was impossible at this scale. Also, it does have too much backlash in my opininion. If someone knows how to fix it, that will be nice! And in this scale, again, just like my previous truck, the wheels are too wide to add drive to it. I got some pics here, please comment if you got some tips!

And oh, Steering isn't added yet, I found it quite complicated to do it right, I will work on it soon

.

Edited August 29, 2016 by jgw

[Kit Fisto]

Very nice!As for the rear axles, my advice is to look at this axle by ZED, which can be motorized, has diffs and suspension(and perfect for your scale):

You can see more in his BS-gallery : http://www.brickshel...i?f=341920&n=96

Edited March 7, 2016 by Kit Fisto

[jgw]

Very nice!As for the rear axles, my advice is to look at this axle by ZED, which can be motorized, has diffs and suspension(and perfect for your scale):

Thanks! But what I need is an axle with 4 studs between the wheels. As I found it impossible to do that with a differential, I gave up the idea of making it 8x8. Sadly the axle of Zed is too wide :-(

[Kit Fisto]

I think that it`s possible to icrease the distance between axles using longer beams and 16t gears between 16t-sides of diffs.

As for the width, the complete assembly with wheels is 14 studs wide.Is it really too wide for your Scania?

[jgw]

I think that it`s possible to icrease the distance between axles using longer beams and 16t gears between 16t-sides of diffs.

As for the width, the complete assembly with wheels is 14 studs wide.Is it really too wide for your Scania?

yeah, I forgot to mention my truck uses dubble tires at the rear axles. this makes the space between the wheels 4 studs. I can make a picture If you don't understand

[__________________________]

Are you going to build a tank to go inside it?

[jgw]

Are you going to build a tank to go inside it?

On it you must have meant? The containers are too small for a tank, and The Netherlands don't own any tanks anymore, so it would not be correct in that way. But it's a good idea and I will think about it

[__________________________]

On it you must have meant? The containers are too small for a tank, and The Netherlands don't own any tanks anymore, so it would not be correct in that way. But it's a good idea and I will think about it

It appears there is a very simple design for small chassis of tank: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=technic%20small%20tank

This would be truly unique creation!

[CollinsLegoTechnicDen]

will it be RC perhaps you could just put battery's and such in a container on the back with the receiver sticking its head out the top ( or a S-Brick could mean a seamless container ) this model could spawn a decent off road vehicle all though if you do add RC equipment you might want to put hard shocks on all wheels

sorry for my bad writing

[jgw]

This is how I build the rear axles. As you see, drive is not an option. This means no drive or steer motors. But, however, the truck has a container lifting system, which can be motorized. As for the tank, if I build one, it is going to be a realistic one. not like those small tanks, as they dont fit the final model.

My plan was to build this truck in Dark Bluish Grey, but is it possible? as far as I know is there not many parts in that color, especially parts to design cabins. Anyone experience with it?

[Victor Imaginator]

With this part is possible to make driven and suspended axle.

[jgw]

With this part is possible to make driven and suspended axle.

Right but,

First, I didn't manage to build an axle with drive which is suspended, sturdy and small enough to fit 2 of them behind each other. Yes I actually tried.

Second, when you take into considiration that this model is aprox. 50 studs long, drive without differential is going to downgrade it's performance and playability a lot.

Sry if I'm a hard guy to convince, but I tried a lot of ideas, but maybe some of you guys manage to do it.

[Kit Fisto]

I`d just advice you not to go for tandem wheels...It won`t really hurt the model, yet will allow you to make driven axle.

[Saberwing40k]

I'd agree with Kit Fisto, at this scale these wheels are approximatly 2 times wider than they should be, so single tires on the rear would look just right. Also, not having differentials at this scale probably would not matter, I have built an 8x8 truck that was roughly 100 studs long, and never had any problems with it turning.

[Sylvian]

I`d just advice you not to go for tandem wheels...It won`t really hurt the model, yet will allow you to make driven axle.

I'd agree with Kit Fisto, at this scale these wheels are approximatly 2 times wider than they should be, so single tires on the rear would look just right. Also, not having differentials at this scale probably would not matter, I have built an 8x8 truck that was roughly 100 studs long, and never had any problems with it turning.

This,..

[Tommy Styrvoky]

I think using these tires would be more accurate for the rear of the vehicle, as they are too thick for the current scale. http://alpha.brickli...?P=56904c01#T=C

And for transporting vehicles, I think a tank would be too heavy, the maximum load is 16500 kg, a light AFV, IFV or APC would work though. Here's a couple options for the payload. A Fennek, that's a Dutch light vehicle.

Or if you still want something with tracks it could be a UN vehicle. A FV107 Scimitar is a modern AFV used by the British and could fit on the vehicle or a FV101 Scorpion.

Or a M113

Edited March 11, 2016 by Tommy Styrvoky

[jgw]

Okay, I am convinced. The rear axles are going to be driven with just single wheels. I have to look at the front axles if drive fits, then they will be driven too.

@tommy, nice researsch you've done! I didn't know the weight limitation, and that fv101 looks gorgeous! A fennek is also nice, but less fun to buils I think.

Thanks all!

[jgw]

The progress so far

So, after weeks of building, rebuilding, taking the model apart and banging my head against the wall out of frustration, I made some good progress. I did rebuild the whole chassis. It now features:

• Pendular suspension on all axles,
  
• Both rear axles differential driven,
  
• Front axles steered at a different angle,
  
• Steering through a wormgear.
  
• Lifting boom actuated by 2 LA's.
  

The pendular suspension was quite easy. The stiffnes was easy to get right. The front 3 axles are supported by those 2x1 rubber pieces, the last axle isn't. The rear axles pendular movements aren't that stiff, but it is not needed. The biggest part of the weight is gonna be on the front, so the front axles are much stiffer. The rubber pieces are 2 studs underneath the pivot point, resulting in a very stiff movement. But seeing in the pictures underneath, it performs quite good. The wheels dont even touch the fenders on the picture.

Front axles aren't driven, It would result in a way to big and complex axle, and I need the space so much.

The boom was the most irritating aspect of the model so far. At first I wanted it to extend, like in the real truck, but the space available restricted me to a static boom. Placing the LA's was a progress of finetuning, but removing the "housing" of the LA's did the job. It now works almost perfectly, but the connection of the boom to the chassis is still a little flimsy.

The whole model is going to be black, so I might need some practising with taking the photos.

What I want to do

The Scania isn't barely finished yet, so lots of work to do. What I want to have at the end:

• Fully working loading of the lowbed,
  
• A gearbox for changing between loading and driving,
  
• A detailed outside of the cabin,
  
• Hopefully some interior,
  
• "Clean" some things up,
  
• Make it all more rigid.
  

Tips and improvements are welcome as cake! (Made up that saying myself I think. )

Final

I must say I enjoy writing such posts as this very much, it makes me feel good. But I have a question for you guys, maybe some of you know more than me about the WLS. I know a little about the truck, but my dad is only allowed to drive the "4-tonners", the MB's and the Amaroks, so he couldn't take a Scania home for me. Okay, the real question. Most versions of the Scania WLS do have an container catch-thingy (picture includen underneath), and I wonder how they attach those to the containers. I know how they are connected to the truck, but how are they connected to the containers? Thanks if you know.

Sorry for the crappy pictures, I promise that the finished model will get proper photo's

Flickr link: https://flic.kr/s/aHskE8QTX5

Edited September 5, 2016 by jgw

[Saberwing40k]

That piece you are referring to is actually not part of the truck. It's an adapter, used to connect to ISO containers. The containers have points on the corners for securing them, like in stacks, and that frame you circled in the pictures connects to that so that the truck can lift the containers. All it is is a frame, that latches on to the container corners, and then has a loop at the right height for the truck to lift it. I don't know if they are bolted, or twist locked. This is a twist lock:

At your scale, you'd probably be able to use just standard pins, or maybe something similar to the 42009 B model. Hope that helps you.

[jgw]

(...)

Thanks! I did thought so, but now I know! Gonna implement it, got some ideas already.

[Rijkvv]

All it is is a frame, that latches on to the container corners, and then has a loop at the right height for the truck to lift it. I don't know if they are bolted, or twist locked. This is a twist lock:

Yup, those twist locks are used to secure the container onto the truck after it is pulled on. But you don't use them to attach the container to that X-shaped frame. On top there are some pins comparable in shape with twist locks. When the driver lowers the frame, these pins fall into the holes used for twist locks.

But then the container isn't attached to the X-frame yet. To be able to pull the container onto the truck, there are some bars that have to be attached manually at the lower part of the container

Not the Netherlands Army WLS, but it works the same. What I mean is the right bottom corner. You see a Technic Beam/Liftarm shaped thingy. That is attached from the side. This, in combination with the pins on top, makes sure the container can be pulled onto the truck. After that, the twist locks can be tightened, the rollerbeds can be fold and you're good to go.

Maybe I'm not very good in explaining, so perhaps a video is more useful:

Edited July 17, 2016 by Rijkjavik

[Richard L aka Scooby]

I like this chassis a lot. Could you make a file of this chassis or better detailed pictures. I would like to work in this scale to, but at the moment i am collecting information as much as i can.

Forget it .....i just looked at your Flickr page and found the pictures i was looking for.

[jgw]

(...)

You sir, deserve an oscar! You helped a very desperate man out of his trouble! Thanks a lot!

(...)

The pictures are crap, I know. Good thing you found out. I must say I am not an expert with this scale, but for me it is the most fun. Maybe I will make a file, if the model is a succes overall. Thanks

[Rijkvv]

You're welcome! And thanks, I always wanted to become an actor.

Instead, I ended up in the army. I'm not a certified WLS driver, but have worked with them quite a bit when I was in Turkey so that's where I got the knowledge from.

Looking forward to your progress.

[jgw]

You're welcome! And thanks, I always wanted to become an actor.

Instead, I ended up in the army. I'm not a certified WLS driver, but have worked with them quite a bit when I was in Turkey so that's where I got the knowledge from.

Looking forward to your progress.

Oh oh, spectators with experience! Get outta here!

Jokes aside, love to see that you know the truck so well. I try to make it as authentic as possible, although some things are going to be fake.

It will take 5-6 weeks untill any furhter progress, I am now sorting all my parts and at the end of the week I am going to "enjoy" the french baguettes for 3 weeks. I will be back with serious muscled jaws