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This is looking good :thumbup: I like the drive and how you did the steering Did you paint the pneumatic cylinder or did you make some of the picture black and white :sceptic: Me confused :laugh:

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This is looking good :thumbup: I like the drive and how you did the steering Did you paint the pneumatic cylinder or did you make some of the picture black and white :sceptic: Me confused :laugh:

Yeah I desaturated all the colors except red. :tongue:

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Amazing work here, this thread make me take apart my current supercar project just to rebuild the suspensions :) Looking forward to your updates!

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Surprise, I'm back!

I had a very impromptu all-night livestream last night, very much spurred on by the impending threat of a MOC-less BrickCon. A few people stopped by for my 7.5 hour stream, which went by very very well (aside from my potato of a webcam)! As for the car, a lot has changed:

28784127494_7f438deacf_c.jpg

Shady's Back by VKTechnic, on Flickr

Before the stream, all I had were two axles connected by a mock chassis. Now, all of the functional elements are, well, functional. The car drives and steers, and it has a mechanism for an active rear wing (which still needs to be built), a working steering wheel, adjustable seats, and working door mechanisms. All that's left is the bodywork, and that is sure to take a few long days to get done.

Thanks again to everyone for all your support! BrickCon is just four weeks away, and this model definitely won't build itself! I will be posting a link soon to the next livestream, keep an eye out for that if you're interested!

As for the car, a lot has changed.

Edited by VKTechnic

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If it is a 1:10 scale car you have serious problems with the width...

I don't know, everything checks out on the blueprints :tongue:

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Maybe I am wrong, a 1:10 car use to have 25 studs of width sometimes even more but they are not realistic cars. How many studs has your car from wheel to wheel?.

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Maybe I am wrong, a 1:10 car use to have 25 studs of width sometimes even more but they are not realistic cars. How many studs has your car from wheel to wheel?.

28 studs at the widest point of the body.

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28 studs at the widest point of the body.

That is what I say, the best car I remember now having similar width is the Predator from Nathanaël Kuipers and I think it has 27 studs, great car but unreal car.

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Maybe I am wrong, a 1:10 car use to have 25 studs of width sometimes even more but they are not realistic cars. How many studs has your car from wheel to wheel?.

That 25 studs width value is based on the minimum for driven independent suspension with 68.8X36 ZR tyres (those are the norm for 1:10). 3 for the diff, 2 for the diff support (often either an "O" or "H" frame), 12 for the joints (either U or cardan, both need 3 studs each), 2 for the wheel support (usually a hub) and 6 for the rest of the wheels.

Width of a One:1 is 1996mm, so that's almost exactly 25 studs. If you need to go wider, go proportionately longer and taller too. I'm no expert, but usually I allow myself to scale everything up by a maximum of 10% - any more and the wheels look too small. So 28 might just be OK, but it won't be 1:10 any more.

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That 25 studs width value is based on the minimum for driven independent suspension with 68.8X36 ZR tyres (those are the norm for 1:10). 3 for the diff, 2 for the diff support (often either an "O" or "H" frame), 12 for the joints (either U or cardan, both need 3 studs each), 2 for the wheel support (usually a hub) and 6 for the rest of the wheels.

Width of a One:1 is 1996mm, so that's almost exactly 25 studs. If you need to go wider, go proportionately longer and taller too. I'm no expert, but usually I allow myself to scale everything up by a maximum of 10% - any more and the wheels look too small. So 28 might just be OK, but it won't be 1:10 any more.

I had written this if I could :laugh: .

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I tried building the one one a few months back with varying degrees of success. I wish you better luck than I had!

Same. It was about 5 months ago, well before I joined Eurobricks. Needless to say, the aesthetics were pretty poor:

IMG_7701.jpg

It looked stupidly angular, had no seating and the body scraped against the ground, forcing me (purists look away) to use rubber bands to pull the midle of the chassis up. It's only redeeming feature was that the EV3 system provided good remote control and allowed it to reach about 10mph.

I sure hope this One:1 turns out better than mine did - so far looks very promising...

Edited by TheMindGarage

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Quick update. An order from LEGO came in, so I finished the engine bay entirely.

29598325975_3d675f1403_c.jpg

Quick update by VKTechnic, on Flickr

The chassis drives, steers, and the active aero mechanism is fully functional. Also, shortly after I took these pictures, I did the pneumatic tubing for the top shock absorber, and it works just as intended. I'm considering limiting the travel of the suspension so the ride height is slightly lower, which will let me pressurize the top shock even more (for proper anti-squat).

Further progress will come after a week and a half. I'll be going on a short vacation, after which I will be working hard on the Koenigsegg project and placing a few last-minute Bricklink orders. Definitely will be livestreaming the completion of the car, and I'll announce the dates and times for those next week!

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Nice work :wink:

You can also use the pneumatic to create ajustable suspension. Some supercars and cars use it to lower the body when they reach a certain speed :thumbup:

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As far as building cars, i usually go by the 3 wheel rule for length (distance between edges of front and rear wheel being 3 wheel diameters apart) it looks most normal, and for width, totally depending on what kind of car you have in mind, more flexible. Good luck with the rest of the build!

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As far as building cars, i usually go by the 3 wheel rule for length (distance between edges of front and rear wheel being 3 wheel diameters apart) it looks most normal, and for width, totally depending on what kind of car you have in mind, more flexible. Good luck with the rest of the build!

I just go with the manufacturer values, although your rule of thumb generally matches real cars quite closely.

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how do i get notified when the live stream begins ?

Just keep an eye on this thread, I'll be posting a Google+ event page once it begins. You can also subscribe to the VKTechnic channel on YouTube.

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Today's livestream was a huge success! In 7.5 hours, I completed the majority of the rear top bodywork:

29849545576_ceaf79ed63_c.jpg

I've had to use quite a couple of yellow and red parts as substitutes, and they will likely stay that way until a day or two before BrickCon (when the BrickLink shipments will arrive). Regardless, the top mounted active rear wing is fully functional, and the rear bodywork lifts up as one piece. The diffuser area does need some work, but tomorrow's livestream will be mainly focused on the front end! Thanks to all who came and watched, and I hope to see more people tomorrow!

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