General Part Discussion

[HallBricks]

11 hours ago, Error404 said:

Bringing this up again, but I've slowly been disassembling the silage plow from my Claas Xerion set over the last hour while watching YouTube-videos and while doing this, I found that the 24z gear in the plow has no friction whatsoever, just like you described here. I don't recall it being frictionless when I built it, but it's in perfect condition.
It's exactly like regular 24z gears except having a barely noticeable slack that allows it to slide on an axle.

Exactly, I don't think I noticed anything when building the Jet. When I disassembled it, the gear just fell of the axle it was connected to and that was when I noticed it. 

[Richard Dower]

OK...so i just clicked buy on that fake White 42056, and the ONLY parts i plan to keep are the Red rims and tyres, and these panel types....because you cant get them in genuine Lego in White, all other parts i now have in legit lego...and i plan to use White 6538b parts instead of the fake 6538c parts. I went through every parts in the inventory and i sorted out what exists in genuine lego and what the fake model had.

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=42056-1

 

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=24118&idColor=4#T=C&C=4

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18944&idColor=4#T=C&C=4

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=24119&idColor=4#T=C&C=4

I even got the Red shock absorbers as legit Lego parts, and if in the future the parts above are released as genuine parts by Lego oficially i will swap out the fake panels for legit ones, the tyres and wheel hubs....i want Red, they look amazing....and i dont care too much about the black tyres being fake, rubber is rubber imo.

The only reason i am buying this set is to get the parts above, i will throw away the rest and use my legit parts....that way i will have a VERY close to legit White Porsche ;-)

 

Edited March 18, 2017 by Richard Dower
typo

[N-4K0]

I haven't found any, so I reckon the answer is no, but does there exist yet a part like the one below, but with axle holes instead of bar holders on the sides?
Basically a connector #2 with axle hole in the center instead of pin hole?

 

[Richard Dower]

1 hour ago, Error404 said:

I haven't found any, so I reckon the answer is no, but does there exist yet a part like the one below, but with axle holes instead of bar holders on the sides?
Basically a connector #2 with axle hole in the center instead of pin hole?

 

Not to my knowledge, maybe Efferman could design you something and buy it through Shapeways?

[N-4K0]

I don't have any particular need for it, I was just wondering if there was such a piece made by TLG since it, like other specific parts, would be quite useful for certain things.

[Jim]

On 18-3-2017 at 0:24 PM, Richard Dower said:

OK...so i just clicked buy on that fake White 42056...

Don't share your fake LEGO experiences here. Thanks.

[Richard Dower]

If anyone is interested, you can buy the new LBG 11L axles from this seller, very reliable: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-LEGO-23948-Technic-Asse-11L-Grigio-chiaro-6178172-/252827446948?hash=item3addb0aea4:g:UN4AAOSwzgBY1FFI

[JJ2]

Just now, Richard Dower said:

If anyone is interested, you can buy the new LBG 11L axles from this seller, very reliable: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-LEGO-23948-Technic-Asse-11L-Grigio-chiaro-6178172-/252827446948?hash=item3addb0aea4:g:UN4AAOSwzgBY1FFI

$11 for 1 axle! That is was too much

[Richard Dower]

Just now, JJ2 said:

$11 for 1 axle! That is was too much

?....€1.80 for one.

[JJ2]

Just now, Richard Dower said:

?....€1.80 for one.

Shipping costs

[Richard Dower]

Just now, JJ2 said:

Shipping costs

Well....it's probably best to be buying a few others things to justify the postage cost. I personally pay €3 for shipping.

[technic_addict]

41 minutes ago, Richard Dower said:

?....€1.80 for one.

Or just buy it on Bricklink for a lot cheaper.

[Richard Dower]

1 minute ago, technic_addict said:

Or just buy it on Bricklink for a lot cheaper.

With a minimum buy policy, and postage costs....

[Blakbird]

4 minutes ago, Richard Dower said:

With a minimum buy policy, and postage costs....

Not every seller has a minimum buy.  In my experience, Bricklink beats eBay on price almost 100% of the time even with shipping.  The last time I bought LEGO on eBay was 2004.

[technic_addict]

5 minutes ago, Richard Dower said:

With a minimum buy policy, and postage costs....

Not everyone has large minimum buy values.  Personally, I would just wait until Bricks and Pieces has it.

[nerdsforprez]

I sorry for interrupting the current discussion on part coloring..... but I think this is the best place to post this ... as it is a general topic/discussion on parts.  

I have not seen this in a discussion before, so please forgive me if this is redundant... but has anyone ever needed to use the 3L pin with the ridge in any particular orientation other than for convenience (ridge off to the left of image below, not the smaller ridges lengthwise)? 

What I mean by this is that the orientation of the pin allows one to easily pull the pin from one direction but not the other.  But has anyone ever needed to orient the piece in one way or another other than for the obvious reason of convenience?  I recently have had to, and just found it interesting for a use of the piece that I have never needed to use it for. 

I posted a WIP in the star wars forum..... when perhaps I should have posted it in this forum.  It has not generated much discussion.... perhaps it is just not a good project but perhaps just in the wrong place (it is a WIP for the U-wing ship in Technic) 

If the below is not clear, check out the discussion for pics and more clarity.  Briefly, the U-wing has very distinctive, long, narrow wings.  Gravity pulls these wings down and I am trying to make the sweeping wing action functional.  This has been difficult with the length of the wings and gravity pulling on them.  Some wonderful MOCs have been produced but no one has really solved this problem and it makes a mechanized action of the wings difficult.  Old design is below..... and will suffice for this discussion (although I have redesigned them to look more like the actual wings of the U-wing)

As gravity pulls the wing down the first set of blue pins in the 40T gear pressure is on the bottom, for the back set of pins in the gear the pressure is towards the top.  I have made the wing very stiff, but there was still bending, nearly all at the site where the gears are connected to the wing.  I tried several solutions to try and make the connection more secure ... but nothing really worked until I discovered the following.  The connection above, with the pieces used, is just fine, IF I use an opposing orientation of the pins in the 40T gears. 

To explain the picture above, the back and front pins are oriented differently.  The ridge is centered at the site of the pressure (down towards the front of the wing and up towards the back of the wing).  This amazingly fixes my problem.  As can be seen, the little ridge creates distance and keeps things in line, if the 3 L pins are oriented differently the wing bends much more because there is not the little amount of plastic separating the gears from the connectors.  Usually, this ridge in the 3L pin does not matter, because it is hidden in the pinholes of liftarms, connectors, etc.  But.... with me using them in the gears, there is no room for that ridge - therefore creating space, which is good for my MOC.  This helps the wings of my U-wing remain straight. 

Just a fun finding that I thought I would share of an otherwise, fairly mundane and boring part. 

[agrof]

3 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

I have not seen this in a discussion before, so please forgive me if this is redundant... but has anyone ever needed to use the 3L pin with the ridge in any particular orientation other than for convenience (ridge off to the left of image below, not the smaller ridges lengthwise)? 

Absolutely, many times the 3L pins can be used like this part, to connect modules together:

It offers a pin already for instant connection without a 1L gap, like that one above. I also use them purposely for detachable stuffs, the main modul contains it with the collar inside, so it can not be pulled out when you remove the f.e.: detachable battery box cover.

[nerdsforprez]

2 hours ago, agrof said:

Absolutely, many times the 3L pins can be used like this part, to connect modules together:

It offers a pin already for instant connection without a 1L gap, like that one above. I also use them purposely for detachable stuffs, the main modul contains it with the collar inside, so it can not be pulled out when you remove the f.e.: detachable battery box cover.

Sorry, I should have been clear.  As posted in my initial comment, I meant the 3L pin only;  not the 3L pin with stop bush. 

Hopefully the other pics make clear what I wanted to say.  The 3L pin has a "stop" - but no bush.  THis "stop" piece of plastic is what I was referring to.  In reference to my build, the orientation of the "stop" is very important, other than the obvious reason of how it can be removed.  Not sure I have ever seen anyone reference to it this way before.....

[agrof]

We are talking about the same.  I just brought the 3L pin with bush only as an example for usage. The second part of text is still about the normal 3L pin (my bad, I see it can be misreaded), here is an example what I mean, I did like this with my Bison bot:

To be able to connect the driven axles module (left) + the secondary axles module (right) + the transmitter wheel assembly (marked with lime green), the 3L pins are used instead of usually these parts : . Advantage is, that the 3L pins offer direct mounting points to the cover panels. Also on the right of the picture, you can not see the collar of the outer 3L pins, because they are purposely placed inwards, so at body panels removal (for replacing the BB) they can not slide out - less parts to reassemble.

Edited April 2, 2017 by agrof

[Blakbird]

14 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

I have not seen this in a discussion before, so please forgive me if this is redundant... but has anyone ever needed to use the 3L pin with the ridge in any particular orientation other than for convenience (ridge off to the left of image below, not the smaller ridges lengthwise)? 

What I mean by this is that the orientation of the pin allows one to easily pull the pin from one direction but not the other.  But has anyone ever needed to orient the piece in one way or another other than for the obvious reason of convenience?  I recently have had to, and just found it interesting for a use of the piece that I have never needed to use it for. 

Yes!  I recall @crowkillers talking about this.  The pin is not exactly the same length in each direction so it sticks out a bit past the 2L side.  This can sometimes interfere with gearing so it is important to position it in the other direction.

[nerdsforprez]

14 hours ago, agrof said:

We are talking about the same.  I just brought the 3L pin with bush only as an example for usage. The second part of text is still about the normal 3L......

Ahh...... thank you for the clarification. 

[AkiyamaWataru]

I only have the soft big shock absorbers. Does anyone know the dimensions/specification for the springs? I want to buy harder springs to keep the front of a car up.

[JJ2]

34 minutes ago, AkiyamaWataru said:

I only have the soft big shock absorbers. Does anyone know the dimensions/specification for the springs? I want to buy harder springs to keep the front of a car up.

 

[AkiyamaWataru]

It gives only the spring rate. I'm looking for information about innernand outer diameter, length und so on.

[Aventador2004]

What springs are you using??